Paul Grau

indonesia

Impressions on Indonesia from my trip in summer 2012.

Indonesia was a blast. Full stop.

We arrived at a polished airport in the middle of nowhere [1] and instantly noticed the general friendly attitude everyone seems carrying around. People on the street are happy to meet and help you. Even in the biggest traffic jam everyone smiles. Coming from Germany I couldn't believe this. Also, children everywhere. It's really striking what a young population Indonesia has.

On the other hand, if you want to, they just let you go. It's most obvious in comparison to Thais: In Bangkok everywhere you walked someone tried to sell you something or rather rip you off. When someone was nice to you, you instantly wondered about their benefit. Quite the contrary in Indonesia. People were genuinely friendly. One family even rejected our money after they gave us delicious food while we sheltered from a sudden downpour. It took me some time to overcome my general suspicion towards everyone.

The second thing to note is the incredible countryside. I've never seen so much green in my life. Forests, palm trees, rice fields, spices drying in the sun, water falls, beaches, vulcanos; also fauna including wild monkeys, cats, dogs... Everything seems to burst of life. Even the high amount of motor cars can't deminish that.

We rented a small beach bungalow for 5€ per person at Lake Maninjau which was just as peaceful as the Loneley Planet suggested. So much beauty for so little money. You have to see it yourself to believe it.

Lastly, food. I was constantly looking forward to sunset, the end of the Ramadan fast, when countless stalls appeared on the streets selling most delicious food. Classics like Nasi Goreng (fried rice with vegetables) and specials like Tahu (fried tofu), Rendang (beef stew), Ketupat (compressed rice), chicken satay and others, all spicy and yummy, in most cases sold from families ("My mama cooked it"). If you wanted to you could also easily get a sandwich or pancake at one of the actually good tourist cafes. Everything for almost no money. Food heaven.

I had only two weeks in Indonesia but was completely convinced of this country's beauty. I hope I can come back soon.

Caveat: Don't stop in Jakarta. Seriously, don't. It spoils the whole experience. It's massive, costly, charmless and not anywhere near the rest of the country. People are okay, but it's just no fun staying there. The airport and getting to the train station is okay, though. Bali is different as well. It indeed has great beaches and a beautiful countryside, perfect for diving, swimming and bike tours, but it's a different feeling. I had a relaxing time there, nevertheless.

[1] Pekanbaru, from there to West Sumatra. Bukittinggi and Lake Maninjau highly recommended! Tourism seems to have decreased over the last 20 years, so it's really peaceful.

Other recommended places:

Muaro Beach Bungalows, Lake Maninjau
d'enam Hotel, Bukittinggi
Bedudal Cafe, Bukittinggi
Mount Bromo, East Java
Buddha Bar & Restaurant, Padangbai, Bali

Mount Bromo